Uncategorized

Holy Trinity of Beer in Orange County

What was the first one? That’s easy: Juice Bomb, Sloop Brewing’s citrusy, flagship New England Style IPA that introduced me to the wonderful world of floral, super-hoppy beers that changed it all. 

My best friend in the city was a beer head and was always turning me onto IPA’s and I liked them okay, but for me, the bitterness of the classic West Coast style was a bit much. After 25 or so years in the bar and restaurant business and a move to the Hudson Valley, I found myself at my final job within that industry at a restaurant on the Newburgh waterfront. There, where I worked the taps of a line-up of all local beers was where I first tried Juice Bomb. Wow, I was instantly hooked. I loved the floral aspect of the hops and Sloop found a way to put that upfront and minimize the bitterness, all in a package that looked more like an iceless screwdriver than the amber or golden, clear brew that I and most Americans grew up drinking.

Back then, it wasn’t widely distributed, but the brewery wasn’t far, at that time they had just moved from their small, original place upstate, to a huge facility in a former IBM plant in East Fishkill, a mere 20 minutes away. I began making frequent pilgrimages there to seize the juice.

I started seeking out similar beers and began finding other Hudson Valley breweries, some had been there a while and some had recently opened. I found that most of them shared not only the ability to create amazing brews, but they also have a way of creating incredible spaces at which to enjoy the local delights.

Then came the motorcycle…

As my marriage was winding down, crumbling beneath my feet and I realized that my safety was no longer a priority to my significant other, a surprise visit from a friend, one day riding his old Suzuki DR350 sparked an idea. Why the fuck don’t I have a motorcycle? I grew up riding motocross bikes in Florida. It was one of my absolute favorite things to do and I realized that nothing is stopping me now. Not to mention, I’m living in the Hudson Valley, an area chock-full of twisty mountain roads, arteries passing through gorgeous farmland and plenty of straightaways that one can put the hammer down and just plain haul-ass.

It took me a couple bikes (and some wasted cash) to figure out the one I wanted. But I did and I love it more every time I ride it. Now some like to ride, just to ride and I do, but it’s good to have some destination in mind and my mind usually wants a fresh, cold, New England style IPA. Luckily I live in Orange County, so I’m in a good place for such cravings. I even have a holy trinity of sorts: three breweries all within single-digit miles of one another, connected by perfect roads on which to enjoy growling along over an in-line 3 and two wheels.

The first of the three that I discovered was Rushing Duck Brewing in Chester, N.Y. They were on my radar. My first Hudson Valley job was at a gastropub in Nyack that specialized (still does, I believe) in craft beer where I was a bartender and began to get familiar with some of the local beers. RD does incredible stouts, but can also brew some pretty damn good NEIPA’s, not to mention killer saisons. They are situated on the edge of the fabled Black Dirt region, the farm region with Oreo-colored dirt that is some of the most fertile on earth, thanks to an ancient glacial lake that once covered the area and continuous, past floodings from the Wallkill River. Choose a beer from the chalk board and head out back, grab a seat and enjoy while gazing at crops that stretch out into the distance, like a scene from a Millet painting.

As you enjoy the bucolic scene grab a bite to eat from one of the rotating food trucks, which all but guarantees you a visit from James the resident brewery cat who makes his rounds to all who visit, with a special focus on the ones with food.

Just down the road on King’s Highway near the artist’s community of Sugar Loaf is Tin Barn Brewing, the second of my brewery threesome. I discovered Tin Barn not too long after they opened after reading an article in Hudson Valley Magazine that mentioned the fact that they are owned and operated by a woman, one of only four or so female brewmaster-owners in the country at the time, which I thought was super-cool. But when I tasted her beer, I didn’t care who or what brewed it, I just wanted more…and more. It’s housed in an enormous tin “barn” with huge, towering, gleaming brewing tanks (I’m sure there’s a more technical word, but I dunno) filling one corner, an Italian Dome oven that cranks out some seriously good pizzas and a line of taps that fill glasses with some of the best NEIPA’s I’ve ever tasted. They do some serious dessert-type stouts (think say…Maple syrup French Toast stout or Devil Dog Cheesecake stout) and incredible fruited sours that’ll make you a believer in the sour trend that has been sweeping the brew world for some time now (Melted Gelato Raspberry-Banana sour anyone?) Outside they sport a huge, AstroTurfed backyard with misting fans, an elevated deck and a stage that showcases great bands on the weekends.

I saved my favorite for last. I was hoping these three breweries would form some sort of isosceles triangle or something so I could have some cool, geometric name to the story, but looking at a map, they are actually kinda in a line, oh well, guess I have to play up the “Holy Trinity” angle. Just a quick spin down the Kings Highway will bring you to the 3rd location of my Trifecta. Before reaching the quaint town of Warwick, you’ll find The Drowned Lands. Built in the administration building of a shuttered prison complex built in the 1930’s. The brewery boasts a large patio and upper deck overlooking a 2 acre beer garden on Wawayanda Creek. The Industrial look of the tap room is offset by lots of white, creating a super-comforting vibe. Glass walls around the brewing apparatus expose one of the things that sets DL apart from other breweries, the enormous oak foeders, aka giant barrels where DL ferments its brew. Most Breweries ferment in stainless steel to have complete control over fermentation conditions. But using the oak lets nature take its course. If oak barrels make you think of wine, so should the term terroir, which makes up the foundation of the philosophy behind DL’s beers. It’s the idea of letting the character and flavor be imparted by the environment in which it is produced. It’s a pretty noble concept when considering simple beer, but simple beer is not what these guys make. Our dad’s beer is dead in the minds of those of us that choose to drink fresh, local beer that’s exploding with flavor and unique character and there’s no going back. From the first sip of one of DL’s Hazy IPA’s, you know you’ve stumbled upon something different. The mouthfeel is the first thing I notice, almost creamy. Where some brewers use lactose for that feel, DL uses flaked oats to get that smooth feel that just puts a smile on your face. The hops stand out and the bitterness is so subtle that it’s hard to detect in some of their canned works of art. I know this article is NEIPA-heavy, but what can I say? I love them, but keep in mind DL does incredible sours and stouts, among other things. One thing I can say for sure about DL is that everything I’ve tasted from them has been phenomenal. The time and effort they put in and the techniques they use to make their beer certainly make them stand out in a crowded field of stiff, local competition.

I consider these three my “Holy Trinity” in Orange County, but they are far from alone. Within a short ride, one can taste a wide variety of brews at Long Lot Farm Brewery, Glenmere Brewing Company, Westtown Brew Works, Shepherds Eye Brewing Company and another favorite, one of the pioneers of brewing in Orange County, Equilibrium Brewery, based in Middletown. The selection of breweries, wineries, hard cideries, distilleries and farm stands run far and wide in the area surrounding the Black Dirt. Take the time, take the ride and discover for yourself.

Author